Momofuku Daishō: David Chang's Modern Asian

May 2, 2016, 5:52 am

≫ Next: Lentil Salad with Roast Tomato, Red Onion & Cilantro

≪ Previous: Céilí Cottage: Paddy's Irish Pub & Oyster Bar

Never before has there been a phenomenon like Momofuku. Once a completely unrecognizable word, it's now synonymous with David Chang's award-winning restaurants of the same name in three countries around the globe, including his spectacular bento box of restaurants in the modern Momofuku glass cube complex adjacent to Toronto's Shangri-La Hotel and just steps to the Canadian Opera Centre. Daishō specializes in shared plates, large format family-style feasts and an à la carte dinner menu that's constantly changing, inspired by the diversity of Ontario's native ingredients and showcasing the best of Canadian farms from the east to west coast. It's more than just ramen and pork buns. Completely encased in glass, the room’s vaulted ceiling is dominated by a grand finned structure made of oak, which not only brings warmth to the minimalistic space but serves as an elegant beacon along University Avenue.

Seated at one of the small tables along the soaring 3-storey bank of windows overlooking University Avenue, we jump-started our evening with cocktails that arrived with a complimentary plate of crunchy pickled cucumbers. Looking over the menu, we selected buttery Buttermilk Biscuits served with black pepper butter and a spicy chili honey, followed by the Crispy Chicken Bun with ssäm sauce, pickled carrot and chopped scallion, Daishō's outstanding Agnolotti with oxtail, bay leaf, black truffles, and Roasted Rice Cakes with spicy pork sausage, chinese broccoli and tofu. As an entrée we shared one of Momofuku's newest dishes on the menu, Skate with Black Bean Sauce and Grilled Scallions served with sticky rice. For dessert we splurged on three warm Ricotta Filled Doughnuts with orange and honey! With its fabulous views, soft lighting, friendly professional service staff, and constantly changing dinner menu, Daishō continues to be one of the most consistently enjoyable dining experiences in the city.

Daisho's dinner menu

A Corpse Reviver #2 with gin, lillet, orange and lemon - a vintage cocktail from the 1930s

Weller Old Fashioned from 1881, with Weller bourbon, bitters and sugar

Complimentary pickled sweet and salty Kirby cucumbers with peppers

Buttery Buttermilk Biscuits served with black pepper butter and chili honey

Crispy Chicken Bun from Harriston Co-Op in Ontario, served with ssäm sauce,

pickled carrot, and scallion

Agnolotti with oxtail, bay leaf and black truffles

Roasted Rice Cakes with spicy pork sausage, chinese broccoli and tofu

Skate with Black Bean Sauce and Grilled Scallions served with Sticky Rice

Macchiato

momofukutoronto.com/daisho/menus

Momofuku Ginger Scallion Sauce

Makes 3 cups

Recipe courtesy of David Chang, Momofuku

2 1/2 cups thinly sliced scallions, both greens and whites

1/2 cup finely minced peeled fresh ginger

1/4 cup grapeseed or other neutral oil

1 1/2 tsp usukuchi - light soy sauce

3/4 tsp sherry vinegar

3/4 tsp kosher salt, or more to taste

Mix together the scallions, ginger, oil, soy, vinegar, and salt in a bowl. Taste and check for salt, adding more if needed. Although it's best after 15 or 20 minutes of sitting, this sauce is best once it's stirred together and chilled up to a day or two in the fridge. "Ginger scallion sauce is one of the greatest sauces or condiments ever. Ever. Its definitely a mother sauce at Momofuku, something that we use over and over and over again. If you have ginger scallion sauce in the fridge, you will never go hungry: stir 6 tablespoons into a bowl of hot noodles — lo mein, rice noodles, Shanghai thick noodles — and youre in business. Or serve over a bowl of rice topped with a fried egg. Or with grilled meat or any kind of seafood. Or almost anything".

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Lentil Salad with Roast Tomato, Red Onion & Cilantro

May 3, 2016, 5:25 am

≫ Next: Greek Orthodox Easter and Whole Roasted Lamb

≪ Previous: Momofuku Daishō: David Chang's Modern Asian

Inspired by Yotam Ottolenghi's recipe for Castelluccio Lentils with Tomatoes and Gorgonzola from his award-winning cookbook 'Plenty,' I created this modified version of his inspired masterpiece, while still retaining the spirit and exceptional flavour of the original dish, but eliminating some of the needless extra calories. Instead of adding soft and sinful morsels of high-fat Italian gorgonzola cheese, a generous dollop of thick and creamy low-fat plain Greek yogurt crowns the salad in its place. Still, flavour still reigns supreme with a magnificent marriage of sweet oven roasted cherry tomatoes, marinated sliced red onions, fresh chopped cilantro and heart-healthy low-cal lentils, all dressed with a fragrant vinaigrette of garlic, cumin, olive oil and both lemon and lime juice. Simple and delicious, this dish tastes as sensational as it looks.

Lentil Salad with Roast Tomato, Red Onion & Cilantro

Serves 12

2 19 oz can lentils, rinsed

Juice of 1 lime and 1 lemon

2 tbsp white wine vinegar

1 red onion, thinly sliced into rings

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

2 tsp ground cumin

2 small garlic clove, crushed

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

20-30 cherry tomatoes, halved and roasted

1/4 cup olive oil

1 cup Greek yogurt, as garnish

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Toss the tomatoes together in a large bowl with 1/8 cup of olive oil, salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Place the tomatoes, cut side up, in one layer on a foil-lined baking sheet and roast for 45 minutes, until the tomatoes are soft and lightly caramelized. Remove from the oven and allow to cool. This can be done a day before.

Mix the lemon and lime juice, vinegar and a pinch of salt in a small bowl, then add the sliced onion rings and toss to coat. After 10-15 minutes the onions will soften and turn pinkish. Whisk in the oil, cumin and garlic to the onions, then add the lentils, cilantro and roasted tomatoes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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Greek Orthodox Easter and Whole Roasted Lamb

May 4, 2016, 5:31 am

≫ Next: Cinco de Mayo: Classic Margaritas & Guacamole

≪ Previous: Lentil Salad with Roast Tomato, Red Onion & Cilantro

In Greece, Easter is not Easter without lamb roasted on a spit. For many Greek families, the roasting of a whole lamb is a tradition that's carried out with great joy and celebration. It’s not for the faint of heart, nor those in a rush. It takes time and patience but the rewards at the end are scrumptious. After seven long weeks of fasting and dietary restrictions, families and friends gather on Greek Easter Sunday for a great feast, the highlight being the slow-roasted 'Arni Sti Souvla'. Every family has it's own idea on the best way to cook the Easter meal but in general the animal is spitted and cooked over an open charcoal bed for about 6 hours, until it is tender, juicy and falling off the bone. Constant turning of the 'souvla' is required so if the family is traditional and doesn't use an electric motor, having lots of friends around is essential, with everyone big or small having a turn rotating the spit.

For those who have grown up with the tradition of roasting a whole animal, they see it as a normal part of Easter festivities, but for newcomers the sight of an entire lamb and its intestine bound innards - the kokorestsi - the experience can be quite shocking. At the same time, one has to respect the tradition. For Greek families, Easter Sunday is always a very social occasion. Friends, family and neighbours are all be invited, with everyone turning up slowly throughout the morning and into the early afternoon, bringing plates of food, boxes of sweets and bottles of their favourite wine. Everyone takes turns at turning the souvla while sipping wine, enjoying delicious mezethes, chatting and helping out with preparations. Invited for our first Greek Easter this past Sunday, the lamb had already been roasting since early in the morning by top chefs David and son Noah, who quickly became mere apprentices once Mr. Marzokis, the family patriarch, arrived later in the day to cast his jaded culinary eye over the roast, poke a finger into the beast's belly and announce when it's done. Naturally, he's also in charge of carving the lamb with great knives and cleavers to the delight of everyone gathered to watch the spectacle. So great is the day, most people will linger on until early evening, not wanting the wonderful day to end.

The highlight of any Greek Easter feast is the roast – a whole lamb on a spit that has been cooked slowly for hours — along with lamb organs wrapped in cleaned intestines known as 'kokoretsi'

Once roasted for about 6 hours over hot coals, the lamb is removed from the 'souvla' or 'spit'

and laid on an enormous chopping board

Using a very sharp knife and cleaver, the hot lamb is chopped into smaller portions

and served with an array of traditional side dishes

A festive occasion, Greek Easter brings together family, friends and the inquisitive younger generation who are destined to continue the culinary traditions of the 'old pros'

Not for the faint of heart, watching a whole lamb being roasted and carved can be an intense,

overpowering and sometimes shocking experience

Spanakopita

Serves 8

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 cup finely chopped fresh dill

6 scallions, finely chopped

2 small leeks, finely chopped

3 lb frozen chopped spinach, defrosted and squeezed to remove excess liquid

Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper

12 -16 oz whole-milk ricotta cheese

6 oz feta cheese, crumbled

1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

3 large eggs

1 cup unsalted butter, melted

1 package 12-by-17-inch sheets phyllo

Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the chopped dill, scallions, and leeks and cook, stirring, until the scallions and leeks are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the spinach and cook, stirring, until heated through and well combined, about 2 minutes more. Season with salt and pepper.

Transfer the spinach mixture to a large bowl and refrigerate until cool, about 20 minutes. Add the ricotta, feta and Parmesan to the cooled spinach mixture, then lightly beat the 2 eggs and add to the spinach mixture, stirring to combine. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.

Brush a 3-inch-deep, 9-inch-by-13-inch baking dish with butter. Trim the phyllo to the size of pan. Working quickly and keeping all remaining phyllo covered with plastic wrap topped with a warm towel to keep moist, place one sheet of phyllo in the prepared baking dish and brush with butter; top with another sheet. Repeat the process until there are 10 sheets of phyllo in the baking dish, then pour the spinach mixture overtop. Top with another 10 layers of phyllo, tucking in the edges to seal and brushing with melted butter between each layer. Transfer to the refrigerator and chill until firm, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Lightly beat the remaining egg and set aside.

Remove the spanakopita from the refrigerator and, using a sharp knife, gently cut through the top layer of phyllo to create eight 5-by-2 1/2-inch pieces. Brush with the beaten egg, transfer to the oven and bake until golden, about 45 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven and let stand 5 to 10 minutes before serving.

Zucchini Keftedes With Feta and Dill

Serves 12

1 1/3 lb medium zucchini, trimmed

1 tsp coarse kosher salt

1/2 cup thinly sliced green onions

3 tbsp chopped fresh dill, plus more for garnish

3 tbsp chopped fresh mint

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 tsp finely grated lemon peel

1 cup panko breadcrumbs

1 large egg, beaten to blend

1 cup coarsely crumbled feta cheese

Canola oil, for frying

Plain Greek yogurt

Grate the zucchini on the large holes of a box grater onto clean kitchen towel. Sprinkle the zucchini with 1 teaspoon coarse salt then let stand at least 30 minutes and up to 1 hour. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment or foil. Wrap the zucchini in towel and squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Place the zucchini in medium bowl. Mix in the green onions, 3 tablespoons of chopped dill, mint, garlic, lemon peel, and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper. Gently stir in the panko and egg, then the feta. Using 2 tablespoons of the zucchini mixture for each keftedes, shape the mixture into 1 1/2 to 2-inch-diameter patties, then place on the baking sheet and chill at least one hour. Note: This can be done 4 hours ahead, but keep chilled.

Pour enough canola oil into heavy large frying pan to reach depth of 1/4-inch and heat over medium-high heat. Working in batches, add the keftedes to the pan and cook until golden and cooked through, about 3 to 4 minutes per side. Using a slotted metal spoon, transfer to paper towels. To serve, arrange the keftedes on a platter and top with dollop of yogurt and garnish with fresh dill. Serve warm or at room temperature.

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Cinco de Mayo: Classic Margaritas & Guacamole

May 5, 2016, 6:27 am

≫ Next: Mary McLeod Shortbread: A Mother's Day Treat

≪ Previous: Greek Orthodox Easter and Whole Roasted Lamb

Cinco de Mayo is a day of celebration and signals that warm weather, sunny days and the summer season are just around the corner. To do it right, forget the sour cream and cheese covered nachos and the margarita pre-mix, and focus instead on authentic dishes that are as complex and rich as the Mexican culture itself, from homemade Guacamole, Quesadillas, Baked Enchiladas, Stacked Tacos, delicate Mexican desserts to fruity Sangria and tart Margaritas. Add music and a festive setting, and you've got the makings of a fabulous fiesta.

Margaritas
Serves 6

1/2 cup coarse salt
1/2 cup freshly squeezed lime juice, plus 1 lime cut in half for the glasses
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 cup triple sec
1 cup white tequila

Pour the salt onto a small plate. Rub the outside rim of each glass with the cut lime. Dip each glass into the reserved salt and set aside. Place the lime juice, lemon juice, triple sec, and 3 cups ice in a blender, and purée on low speed until completely blended. Add the tequila and blend for 2 more seconds. Pour the Margaritas into the reserved glasses, over ice, and serve immediately with a garnish of sliced lime, if you wish.

Guacamole

Makes about 4 cups

Juice and grated zest of 2 limes - use a microplane to zest the limes

4 ripe Haas avocados 

2 plum tomatoes, seeded and diced 

1/2 small red onion, minced 

1 cup chopped cilantro 

1 tsp canned jalapeño peppers, drained and minced 

4 very big pinches of salt 

A few grinds white or black pepper

Zest and juice the limes into a medium bowl. Slice the avocados in half, skin, pit and then dice the avocados. As you dice each avocado, add it to the bowl and toss to coat with lime juice they don’t brown. Add the tomatoes, onions, cilantro, jalapeño, salt and pepper and stir to combine well. Don’t be tempted to mash the avocados. Leave fairly chunky. Serve with tortilla chips and a cold Margarita.

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Mary McLeod Shortbread: A Mother's Day Treat

May 6, 2016, 5:30 am

≫ Next: Linguine with Fresh Basil, Garlic & Walnut Pesto

≪ Previous: Cinco de Mayo: Classic Margaritas & Guacamole

Ever since Mary McLeod opened her first tiny shop Mary McLeod Shortbread at Yonge and Eglinton in Toronto over 30 years ago, I've been an enormous fan of her buttery cookies. Her story is one of inspiration, imagination and pure Scottish determination. Newly divorced, a trained nutritionist and looking to get her children through university, she needed to make a living and decided to do what she did best — bake. Her specialty then and now is her fabulous shortbread, made using a recipe her grandmother taught her when she was just a wee girl in Scotland. Her shortbreads are all handmade with natural ingredients, rich with butter and perfectly textured. 30 years after she opened her store, Mary McLeod is still going strong, and continues to develop new recipes well into her 70's. My favourite recipe has always been her Chocolate Crunch Shortbread — it just seems to melt in your mouth. Mary MacLeod's shortbread is sold at her new location on Queen Street East as well as Holt Renfrew and Summerhill Market, but at $12.75 for 6 cookies, they're not an inexpensive confection. However, I did discover Mary's shortbread recipe online a few years ago, and now make Mary MacLeod-style shortbread for all of my nearest and dearest every Christmas — and it tastes exactly like the original, at a quarter of the price but made with love! Not just for Christmas, these shortbread also make a great Mother's day gift — as sweet as your dear Mum.

Mary MacLeod's Chocolate Crunch Shortbread
Makes 60

1 lb butter
6 oz of icing sugar
2 oz of white fruit sugar
4 oz of Durum wheat flour
20 oz of Cake or Pastry Flour
7 oz Callebaut Belgian chocolate chips, finely chopped
1 bar of Lindt extra creamy milk chocolate

Weigh out all the dry ingredients into different bowls, with the butter in the main mixing bowl. Using a standing mixer, cream the butter, icing sugar, sugar, and durum wheat flour until a pale white colour. Then add the chopped Callebaut Belgian chocolate then gradually add the flour into the mixture, adding a bit at a time. Stop adding flour once you have a soft, pliable dough. If you don't use all the flour that's just fine — you'll know when it's done when the dough doesn't stick to your hands.

Take the shortbread out of the bowl and place onto a clean surface. Knead it for a few minutes until workable and pliable. Form the dough into little balls and flatten slightly with the palms of your hands, then place on a parchment lined baking sheet. Using a small upturned glass or cookie scoop, indent the tops of the shortbread to create small inset circles, then top with a square of chocolate pressed into the centre.

Bake at 325°F for 22 minutes, rotating the pan 180° halfway through. Using a spatula, remove the shortbread from the baking sheet and let them cool on a rack. Once cooled, dust the tops with icing sugar.

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Linguine with Fresh Basil, Garlic & Walnut Pesto

May 9, 2016, 10:56 am

≫ Next: Florentia Ristorante: Tuscan Cuisine on Mt Pleasant

≪ Previous: Mary McLeod Shortbread: A Mother's Day Treat

Originating in the Ligurian region of northern Italy, Pesto alla Genovese traditionally consists of crushed garlic, basil, and pine nuts blended with olive oil, Parmigiano-Reggiano and Fiore Sardo, an Italian cheese made from sheep's milk. The name comes from the Italian 'pestare', which means to pound, to crush, in reference to the original method of preparing pesto with a marble mortar and wooden pestle. Italians also use walnuts for pesto, as they lend a rich earthiness to the pesto sauce, and are much more affordable than pine nuts. This foolproof recipe from my dogeared copy of The Silver Palate Cookbook by Sheila Lukins and Julee Rosso quip that this sauce is "more Mastroianni than DeNiro: suave, mellow, even elegant. Walnuts and heavy cream add sophistication to the basil garlic duo — a pesto that is equally at home on pasta, fluffed into hot rice or stirred into homemade mayonnaise as a sauce for cold poached fish or crudités". It is however right at home with spaghettini, bavette or any other thin pasta.

Basil Pesto Linguine
Serves 4

1 lb linguine, spaghettini or fettucine
1 1/2 tbsp salt
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 cup homemade pesto
1/2 cup freshly grated imported pecorino or parmigiano

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the salt and then when the water returns to a boil add the pasta. Use a wooden spoon to stir the pasta until all the stands are under the water. Boil rapidly until done to taste. To test, occasionally lift and bite a strand. Stir in 2 tablespoons of hot pasta water and the heavy cream to the pesto. Drain the pasta in a colander and return to the hot pan. Stir in the pesto and toss well to combine. Serve immediately on warm plates. Garnish with additional pepper and a bowl of grated cheese on the side if desired.

Basil & Walnut Pesto
Makes 2 cups

2 cups fresh basil leaves thoroughly washed and patted dry
4 good-size garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
1 cup shelled walnuts
1 cup best-quality olive oil
1 cup freshly grated imported Parmigiano
1/2 cup freshly grated imported Romano
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Combine the basil, garlic and walnuts in the bowl of food processor and chop. Leave the motor running and add the olive oil in a slow, steady stream. Shut the motor off, add the cheeses, a big pinch of salt and a liberal grinding of pepper. Process briefly to combine, then scrape out into a bowl and cover with a thin film of olive oil on top, until ready to use; freezes well.

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Florentia Ristorante: Tuscan Cuisine on Mt Pleasant

May 10, 2016, 7:08 am

≫ Next: Crustless Cheese & Spinach Quiche with Red Onion

≪ Previous: Linguine with Fresh Basil, Garlic & Walnut Pesto

Tucked away on Mt Pleasant in uptown Toronto, Florentia is an authentic Italian trattoria featuring classic Tuscan cuisine. Recently awarded the Ospitalità Italiana, a world-wide designation for Italian Restaurants outside of Italy, Florentia prides itself on serving 'real food' based on classic Tuscan cuisine, the healthiest cuisine in Italy, known for its simplicity of execution and the choicest fresh ingredients, a true expression of the Mediterranean diet. Elaborate sauces are not needed because Tuscans use pure, natural flavours and fresh ingredients. The great dishes are in fact very basic: homemade pasta, game or free-range domestic animal meats grilled over wood coals, and beans simmered in earthenware pots. Florentia uses fresh Ontario produce, local seasonal vegetables, meat and poultry as well as fresh Sea Bass from the azure waters of the Mediterranean. The menu features a selection of simple Italian dishes such as Insalata Caprese con Bufala; Spaghetti alla Carbonara, an authentic Roman pasta prepared with house cured guanciale, egg, black pepper and fresh grated parmigiano; Zuppa Di Pesce made with shrimp, calamari, mussels, clams, and salmon cooked in tomato wine; and of course a selection of homemade pizzas and gelato — è delizioso!

The cozy interior of Florentia

Florentia's dinner menu

Florentia style bruschetta with fresh tomato, garlic, basil and arugula on homemade focaccia

Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

Fresh baguette with olive oil and balsamic vinegar

Insalata Arugula with baby arugula, caramelized walnuts and gorgonzola cheese with honey vinaigrette

Insalata Caprese con Bufala with tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil and fresh basil

Zuppa dil Giorno - Stracciatella

Manicotti stuffed with spinach, ricotta and parmigiano in a tomato cream sauce

Zuppa Di Pesce with shrimp, calamari, mussels, clams and salmon cooked in a spicy tomato wine sauce served with crostini

Pollo al funghi - grilled chicken breast in a mushroom sauce with market vegetables and roast potatoes

Pasta del Giorno - Spaghetti with salmon and scallops in a tomato cream sauce

Cappuccino

www.florentia.ca

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Crustless Cheese & Spinach Quiche with Red Onion

May 11, 2016, 12:10 am

≫ Next: Real Mo-Mos on Colborne: Globally-Inspired Cuisine

≪ Previous: Florentia Ristorante: Tuscan Cuisine on Mt Pleasant

My friend Chris introduced me to this fabulous Crustless Cheese and Spinach Quiche, which I have since adopted as my own and make quite often. It's light, easy to make and is perfect for brunch, lunch or a quick dinner with a simple green salad. The added bonus of course is that it's also low carb and a great recipe for vegetarians. The recipe, made with pretty simple ingredients — eggs, cottage cheese, cheddar, spinach and green onions — can certainly be customized with a wide variety of fillings to suit your personal taste. With a bowl of fresh homemade Basil & Walnut Pesto on hand, I adjusted the recipe to include a dollop of the garlicky green pesto with delicious results. Topped with some finely sliced red onions for garnish, this dish is a triumph every time.

Crustless Cheese & Spinach Quiche with Red Onion
Serves 4

2 10-oz packages frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
2 cups cottage cheese
6 large eggs, beaten
3 tbsp flour
1 lb cheddar cheese, grated
4 tbsp green onions, chopped
1/4 cup homemade pesto
1 tsp butter
salt and pepper to taste
1 red onion, finely sliced for garnish

Preheat oven to 375°F. Generously butter a 9" pie plate or individual ramekins, and set aside. Mix the spinach, cottage cheese, eggs, flour, grated cheddar, pesto and green onions in a large bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and stir well to thoroughly combine. Transfer the mixture into the prepared pie plate or ramekins and top with finely sliced red onion. Bake for 60-70 minutes or until set and nicely browned. Serve while hot.

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Real Mo-Mos on Colborne: Globally-Inspired Cuisine

May 12, 2016, 1:58 am

≫ Next: A Culinary Journey to Umbria, Tuscany & Le Marche

≪ Previous: Crustless Cheese & Spinach Quiche with Red Onion

New to Colborne Lane this month is Real Mo-Mo's, created by owner Monique Guffens. Originally from Holland, Monique lived in New Zealand and Australia before coming to Toronto. "The menu is inspired by all the places I've lived and visited," she says. "I’ve always wanted my own restaurant. I've worked at many restaurants in different corners of the world - the Netherlands, Tenerife, Australia, New Zealand and of course Toronto. I did this to gain as much experience as I could with the intention of combining the best dishes and flavours of these worlds, eventually serving them in my own place". The menu is an eclectic combination of Dutch, Australian, New Zealand, Spanish and Canadian dishes, from Dutch Bitterballen, crisp meatballs served with Dijon, grainy mustard and creamy mustard aioli, Down Under Sliders with grilled kangaroo, caramelized onions, granny smith apple, creamy brie and homemade beetroot jam on buttery brioche buns, Papas Arrugatas with mojo sauce from the Canary Islands, Canadian In-House Cut Frites and Mo-Mo’s Tibetan Dumplings, which were added to the menu simply because people expected them because of the restaurant's name — also Guffen’s nickname. For those with a sweet tooth, there's Australian Sticky Date Pudding with hot caramel sauce and Pannenkoek Dutch crêpes with strawberry compote topped with whipped cream and hagelslag. "I designed the interior myself to create an atmosphere resembling a living room more than a restaurant, where staff is always there to serve our guests with a real smile. The hospitality at Real Mo-Mo's is focussed on establishing meaningful relationships with our clients. With this, and the additional luxury of delicious brunches, lunches, dinners and High Tea carefully prepared for them, I am certain that my guests will feel right at home at Real Mo-Mo's". Judging by how busy she's been since opening, Monique may have found the recipe for success.

The interior of Mo-Mo's, with exposed brick walls, polished wood flooring and whimsical mix of chandeliers and exposed-filament hanging bulbs, was designed by owner Mo Guffens to create an atmosphere resembling a living room more than a restaurant

A small votive candle cast in a luminous blue glow from Mo-Mos exterior LED lighting

A complimentary amuse-bouche of roasted tomatoes, brie and pesto

Bitterballen, crispy Dutch style meatballs served with Dijon, grainy mustard and creamy mustard aioli

Mo-Mos Tibetan Vegetable Dumplings with mango chutney

Cast in a blue light from Mo-Mos exterior lighting, owner Mo Guffens presents our Nebbiolo

2103 Ellena Giuseppe Langhe Nebbiolo from the La Morra area of Piedmont

Crispy crusted parmesan green zucchini spears with wasabi aioli

Wine Braised Lamb Shank with a rosemary cabernet jus

Kip Satay & Peanut Sauce - Garlic and ginger marinated grilled chicken skewers with crunchy peanut sauce

realmomos.com

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A Culinary Journey to Umbria, Tuscany & Le Marche

May 12, 2016, 11:04 pm

≫ Next: La Bella Casa Boronia: Our Home in the Umbrian Hills

≪ Previous: Real Mo-Mos on Colborne: Globally-Inspired Cuisine

A Culinary Journey to Umbria, Tuscany & Le Marche

May 13 - June 12, 2016

Scrumpdillyicious will be touring Umbria, Tuscany and Le Marche, exploring the rich cultural and culinary pulse of these beautiful areas of Italy. Join me online each day as we journey from Rome up to Umbria and Tuscany and the historic hilltowns in between, capturing all of the robust flavours and breathtaking natural beauty of this rich landscape of gentle green valleys, soaring mountains, glittering lakes and silver olive groves.

Our Culinary Journey will take us from our lovely Italian farmhouse in the Umbrian countryside to Perugia, Assisi, Montepulciano, Pienza, Sienna and Spoleto. An ancient land which has been at the crossroads of many people and cultures for millennia, Umbria is still as unspoiled and peaceful as the days Renaissance painters immortalized it. Offering one of Italy's most authentic cuisines, the region is famous for its black truffles, Valnerina lentils, robust pastas, superb pecorino cheese, fragrant wines and acclaimed Perugian chocolates.

Then it's over the mountains to Le Marche, one of Italy's little-known treasures. With white-pebble cliff-backed bays along the Adriatic to dramatic sloped hill towns, Le Marche is blessed with a bountiful cuisine from the mountains, farmland and sea, with culinary highlights such as Brodetto all'Anconetana, Vincisgrassi, and Ascoli Piceno's famous stuffed olives, Marchigiana delicacies abound. So pour a glass of wine and join me as we tour ancient hilltop towns, relax in peaceful piazzas, and savour la bella Italia. Andiamo— let's go!

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La Bella Casa Boronia: Our Home in the Umbrian Hills

May 15, 2016, 10:51 pm

≫ Next: Pienza: Pecorino, Piccolomini & Terrazza del Chiostro

≪ Previous: A Culinary Journey to Umbria, Tuscany & Le Marche

Nestled within a lovely old olive grove in the bucolic Umbrian countryside with spectacular views of the scenic hilltowns of Panicale, Piegaro and Citta della Pieve, beautiful Casa Boronia was to be our home away from home for two glorious weeks in the middle of May, complete with a traditional wood burning pizza oven, large private swimming pool and gourmet kitchen. It's easy to fall in love with everything about Umbria — the gorgeous scenery, the traditional Umbrian hill towns, the warmth of its people and of course its wonderful food. Umbrian cuisine is very rustic, often called cucina povera, or peasant cooking, which simply means it is built on traditional dishes created with few ingredients and methods of preparation that rely heavily on local products such as grains, vegetables, fresh herbs, and of course olive oil, Umbria’s liquid gold. One of the most fantastic regions in Italy for food and wine lovers, Umbria is an unspoiled, beautiful part of the country, full of medieval hamlets, stunning cities, artistic treasures and gourmet goldmines. Famed for its black truffles, fabulous extra virgin olive oils, artisanal cured meats and of course wines from Orvieto, Torgiano and Montefalco, our two weeks in Umbria were to be a delicious culinary journey, which we start tomorrow with an early departure to Pienza for it's gastronomic specialty, their famously delicious pecorino cheese. With our early arrival in Rome this morning, picking up our car and driving to Casa Boronia, we're exhausted. So until tomorrow — buona notte tutti!

Casa Boronia

Our lovely outdoor pool surrounded by olive trees and overlooking the Tuscan hills

The woodturning pizza oven

Gourmet kitchen with 6-burner gas stove and doors out to the terrace

A sun drenched stone terrace, perfect for enjoying an appetitivo and antipasti at sunset

View over the olive groves as the sun sets

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Pienza: Pecorino, Piccolomini & Terrazza del Chiostro

May 16, 2016, 11:34 pm

≫ Next: Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore: Gregorian Chants

≪ Previous: La Bella Casa Boronia: Our Home in the Umbrian Hills

Pliny the Elder praised it and Lorenzo the Magnificent was fond of it: pecorino di Pienza is a cheese that for centuries has embodied the taste of the land and traditions of one of Tuscany's most beautiful valleys, the Val d'Orcia. Located in the stunning hills between Montepulciano and Montalcino, Pienza is a charming Renaissance village that produces some of the best pecorino cheese in the country. It's also the first town we visit whenever we're in Umbria. Named after locally born Pope Pius II, Penza has been a UNESCO protected World Heritage Site since 1996. The architectural focal point is the square Piazza Pio II, surrounded by the Duomo and pope's family residence, Palazzo Piccolomini, and the beautiful gardens in the Palazzo's interior courtyard. However, the culinary spotlight is the town's Pecorino cheese together with the Pienza's friendly shop owners, quaint cobblestone streets, lovely restaurants and quiet unhurried lifestyle. With it's small size and charismatic centro storico, this beautiful little hilltop town captures the true essence of Tuscany.

Derived from the Italian word for sheep —'pecora'—pecorino is made from full cream ewe's milk and the naturally growing herbs and shrubs that the sheep graze on around Pienza, are what give the cheese its unique quality, texture and character. The cheese can be sold fresh, medium-aged and well matured, and while the flavours are quite different, it's a matter of taste when deciding which is your preferred choice: fresco, semistagionato or stagionato. Throughout the town, shops are laden with hundreds of flattened spheres of mouth-watering Pecorini, as well as Pienza's great local honey, which pairs up perfectly with the pungent stagionato. One of the finest and most beautiful restaurants in Pienza is La Terrazza del Chiostro, located in a 15th-century ex-convent beside the Palazzo Piccolomini. The cuisine and views from the outdoor terrace are simply sublime. Having arrived in Pienza on a busy Sunday afternoon, with the weekend flower market in full swing, we were seated at a beautiful table for two overlooking the spectacular Val d'Orcia, and enjoyed a sumptuous lunch of local cured meats and pecorino, homemade pasta and a crisp white wine from San Gimignano to toast our first day in Italy's culinary and cultural embrace.

The splendid Sunday flower market in Pienza

We bought a fragrant gardenia and little pot of rosemary at the market

to enjoy during our two weeks at Casa Boronia

Flowers and more flowers

Palazzo Piccolomini was the residence of Pope Pius II

The Palazzo Piccolomini gardens with sweeping views over the Tuscan countryside

Marusco & Maria Prodotti Tipici della Toscana in Pienza

The courtyard entrance to Pienza's beautiful Terrazza del Chiostro is

located in a 15th-century ex-convent

The gorgeous outdoor terrace of Terrazza del Chiostro overlooks the fertile Val d'Orcia

San Felice Acqua di Toscana

Strozzi Vernaccia di San Gimignano

The sumptuous lunch menu

Selection of local salami, prosciutto and pecorino fresco

Sautéed fresh octopus served on soft saffron perfumed potato mousse

Pici with rabbit ragout, fresh peas and guanicale

Tagliolini agli spinaci mantecati con tartufo della crete senesi su fonduto di pecorino semi staginato

The Dessert Menu

Mousse ai Cioccolato Amedi con terra nera allo zucchero mauritanio ed arancia candita

Three scoops of sweet and creamy house-made Gelati

Macchiato

Espresso

www.terrazzadelchiostro.it

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Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore: Gregorian Chants

May 17, 2016, 10:59 pm

≫ Next: Osteria dell'Acquacheta in Montepulciano

≪ Previous: Pienza: Pecorino, Piccolomini & Terrazza del Chiostro

Tuscany’s grandest monastery, the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore is a spectacular Benedictine abbey perched atop a cliff set amid an old forest of olive, pine and cypress trees outside the town of Buonconvento. Founded in 1313 by Saint Bernard Tolomei, who took the religious name Bernardo, construction of the monastery began in 1393 and was completed in 1526, although the buildings were further modified during the Renaissance and the Baroque periods. The resident monks of the abbey support themselves by restoring old books, largely for the Vatican library, as well as preserving important frescoes, producing herbal remedies, delicious honey and liqueurs, but what they are most famous for are the glorious masses which the monks sing in Gregorian chant, a unique form of medieval sacred song set to Latin text without musical accompaniment.

Well known for its spectacular setting, glorious architecture and soulful choir, another highlight of the Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore is the magnificent Chiostro Grande, surrounded by 36 frescoes that depict 'The Life of St Benedict', the founder of Christian monasticism. The fresco cycle was started in 1497 by Luca Signorelli, who painted nine of the scenes but was diverted half way through to work on what is now the Signorelli Chapel in the duomo at Orvieto, but was finished in 1508 by the talented Giovanni Antonio Bazzi, known as il Sodoma, who painted the remaining 28 scenes in high Renaissance style. Having visited the cloisters, church, chapter house, refectory and large library, we timed our arrival for the early evening to hear the hauntingly beautiful Gregorian chants, a unique experience that moves even devout non-believers.

The drawbridge entry to the Abbey

Della Robbia detail above the entry gate

The striking Benedictine Abbey of Monte Oliveto Maggiore

The Great Cloister with the magnificent fresco cycle depicting 36 Scenes from the Life of St Benedict

The fresco cycle continues on each of the four sides of the cloister

Closeup of one of Bazzi's frescoes

Life of St Benedict - Scene 15: Benedict Fishes the Pieces of a Broken Ax

Life of St Benedict, Scene 30: Benedict Foretells the Destruction of Montecassino

Fresco detail of Bazzi (Il Sodomo), who painted himself in to one of the scenes

Frescoed ceiling on the way to the library

Some of the ancient books in the Monastery Library

The beautiful old pharmacy used by the monks

The library itself has about 5000 books from the 1700s and 1800s. All of the older illuminated manuscripts from the Renaissance were removed to hide them from Napolean’s troups. The librarian said that many of these ancient manuscripts were hidden in homes in the outlying countryside, but many more were buried and never again found.

Service at the Abbey

The Monastery wine cellar and gift shop which sells their own wine, liquors and olive oil

The monks produce a liqueur prepared according to a recipe of the old Abbey pharmacy: Flora di Monteoliveto, an infusion of 23 herbs aged for over 6 months

www.monteolivetomaggiore.it

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Osteria dell'Acquacheta in Montepulciano

May 18, 2016, 11:15 pm

≫ Next: Spello: The Medieval Hill Town of Hispellum

≪ Previous: Abbazia di Monte Oliveto Maggiore: Gregorian Chants

Nestled in the heart of Montepulciano on a narrow street just steps from Piazza Grande is Osteria dell'Acquacheta, a cozy and bustling osteria known for it's Bistecca alla Fiorentina, the revered chargrilled Tuscan steak prized for its tenderness and flavour, that comes from the region's celebrated Chianina cows that graze in the nearby Val di Chiana. The heart and soul of Aquacheta is the wildly charismatic knife wielding chef-owner Giulio Ciolfi, who hacks his way through enormous sides of beef and presents the bounty table side to show each customer their desired cut before it's cooked in a traditional wood burning oven. In typical Italian style, simplicity rules the day; little more than olive oil, salt and pepper are needed to highlight the rich flavour of the grilled meat, which is served lightly seared and very rare — don't even think of asking for it to be served otherwise! The menu changes every week with all of the dishes prepared according to traditional recipes such as the excellent Pici al Ragù di Cinghiale, handmade pasta with wild boar sauce, and Tagliatelle al Tartufo Bianco delle Crete Senesi, and of course Giulio's renowned Fiorentina steak cooked in oak embers, which is hormone free and humanely raised. All of the pasta is 'fatto a mano'by Anna, and all the ingredients are from local farmers that cultivate and breed in the traditional manner (without chemicals) and follow the season, including the olive oil and wine. Aquacheta is tiny and very informal. During the high season, reservations are often be made up to a month in advance, so be prepared to share your table with others and bring an appetite.

Wielding an enormous clever, Giulio Ciolfi is known for his Fiorentina steak, which is hormone free and humanely raised and comes from the Chianina cows that graze in nearby Val di Chiana

The tiny cozy interior of Acquacheta in Montepulciano

The short but devilishly delicious menu

A handwritten menu of specials dishes of the day

Housemade Tagliatelle with garlic and olive oil - aglio e olio

Housemade Gnocchi with Wild Fennel Pesto

A litre of Nobile di Montepulciano, the famous wine of the area

The epitome of simple Tuscan cuisine, Bistecca alla Fiorentina is the specialty of Acquacheta,

and is cooked in the open wood fired oven in the back of the restaurant

Enigmatic chef-owner Giulio Ciolfi arrives at our table with the raw bistecca for approval and admiration, then disappears and returns later with our perfectly grilled and carved 3-inch thick marvel

Garnished with a little olive oil and sprinkle of salt, the Bistecca alls Fiorentina was delicious

A side dish of Stewed Chicoria

A simple espresso is the perfect finish to our meal

www.acquacheta.eu

Gnocchi with Duck Ragout
Serves 4
Recipe courtesy of Osteria dell’Acquacheta, Montepulciano

Dough:
Wheat flour, to taste
1 lb potatoes, peeled
Salt, to taste
1 large egg

Sauce:
1 clove garlic
1 carrots
1 onions
1 tbsp Cognac
4 oz duck or chicken liver
Extra virgin olive oil, to taste
Pepper, to taste
3/4 lb duck meat
3/4 lb tomatoes
Salt, to taste
1 bunch sage
1 stalk celery
1 glass of red wine

Finely chop the meat and duck liver with a knife and prepare the chopped celery, garlic, carrot, onion and sage leaves. In a saucepan, brown the chopped vegetables in oil and, once ready, add the meat colouring it on a medium flame. Pour in the cognac and allow it to evaporate, then pour in the wine, and wait until it is absorbed and salt to taste. Peel the tomatoes and strain them, then add them to the pan and cook until the sauce has thickened. Taste and, if necessary, season with salt and a pinch of pepper.

Make the gnocchi by boiling the potatoes in lightly salted boiling water, then mash them while they're still hot, until they are silky smooth. Place the mashed potatoes on a clean work surface and add the flour — the amount depends on the capacity of absorption of the potatoes. Add a pinch of salt and an egg and using your hands, massage until the mixture is well combined. Using your hands, take a handful of dough at a time and and shape it into long rolls about an inch thick then cut them into 1/2-inch pieces. Cook the dumplings in plenty of salted boiling water, and drain them as soon as they surface; serve with the sauce.

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Spello: The Medieval Hill Town of Hispellum

May 20, 2016, 12:09 am

≫ Next: Montefalco, Bevagna & The Arnaldo Caprai Winery

≪ Previous: Osteria dell'Acquacheta in Montepulciano

Entering the ancient fortress walls of Spello one steps back in time, walking through medieval gateways, past Roman ruins and small shops that have been run by the same family for generations. Spello is all texture, with rose coloured stone walls, crumbling terracotta roof tiles, stone pathways, and weathered wooden doors. The splendidly intact town walls are draped around the centro storico like a necklace. Populated in ancient times by the Umbri, Spello became a Roman colony in the 1st century BC. 'Hispellum' was originally a Roman settlement – it lay on the Via Flaminia consular road, close to the strategic junction for Perugia. The most impressive remnant of this stage of the town's history, apart from the walls themselves, is the Porta Venere, an Augustan-era gate flanked by two 12-sided towers, standing in magnificent isolation on the west side of town. Most of the other sights are scattered along Via Cavour, the main street, beginning with Santa Maria Maggiore. This church has a finely sculpted medieval portal, but the real treat is inside: the Cappella Baglioni side-chapel is decorated by one of Pinturicchio's most joyous and colourful fresco cycles, painted in 1501 for the powerful Baglioni family and centred on the birth and childhood of Jesus. This native of Spello was nicknamed "the rich painter" because of the generous detail in his paintings. On Wednesdays, there's a wonderful Famers Market just outside the city walls, but Spello's other pleasure is the civilized pace of life of the town and the lovely Subasio marble from which it is built, which takes on a peach-pink hue around sunrise and sunset.

Plump red tomatoes at Spello's Wednesday farmer's market just outside the city walls

Luscious local purple artichokes, which we bought and roasted for dinner the following night

View down to the market from inside Spello's Medieval walls

A winding and vertical climb is characteristic of Spello

Some of the many flowers that dot the hill town

A small residential courtyard with pots of flowers

A shop festooned with flowers

Another path wends its way through Spello

Drinkable water can be found in most Italian hill town squares

A welcome sight...a lane way going downhill!

A 'gatto' appears to have spotted something quite compelling

A shop on Via Cavour sells lovely local salumi, cheese and olive oil

A view looking down Via Cavour, the main street in Spello

The people of Spello are all very friendly, with many taking the time to linger and share a story

Santa Maria Maggiore with 17th-century carved wooden doors

The interior was updated in 1656

The spectacular frescoes of the Cappella Baglioni with gorgeous majolica floor tiles from 1566

Another pleasure is exploring the culinary culture of this picturesque hill town, such as Chef Valeriano Federici and Faust Benedetti's La Cantina where they serve refined versions of typical Umbrian dishes made with fresh local ingredients that come from members of the farm that runs the the restaurant, as well as fresh homemade pasta and local seasonal produce, from Norcia truffles and locally grown rapunzoli. La Cantina also offers a solid range of fine wines from the cellars of Montefalco Sagrantino, Grechetto and other of the best Italian wine cellars. The homemade pasta and gnocchi of red potatoes of Colfiorito are among the specialties of the menu, including dishes with truffle, Chianina meat, grilled pigeon or salad rapunzoli. The restaurant also sells typical Umbrian produce such as Salamino al Tartufo, Pecorino Stagionata in Fosso, local jams and a line of handmade Umbrian pottery.

La Cantina, one of the finer and more picturesque restaurants in Spello

The lovely stone interior of La Cantina

The delicious menu features typical Umbrian dishes and fine local Montefalco wines

A basket of warm house made bread

Our server uncorking a bottle of local red wine

Full bodied and absolutely delicious

Affettati of local cured meats, farro salad, papa al pomodoro and polenta

Crostini with paté di fegato and also crushed chickpeas with a drizzle of olive oil,

a specialty of Spello

Pollo al Diavolo with fresh rosemary and arugula

Braised Spinach

Fluffy roasted 'patate al forno'

A single espresso to finish the meal

www.lacantinadispello.com

Sformatino di Patate e Porcini
Serves 6
Recipe courtesy of Chef Valeriano Federici, La Cantina

1 lb red Colfiorito potatoes, peeled and diced
2 oz white Cannara onions
1/2 lb fresh porcini mushrooms , finely sliced
1 oz Extra virgin olive oil
1/2 cup double cream
1 oz grated parmesan cheese
3 egg whites
1 oz vegetable broth powder

Sauce:
4 cups double cream
4 cups dairy milk
5 oz fresh ricotta cheese
5 oz grated parmesan cheese
2 oz fresh Black truffle
Salt to taste
Extra vergin olive oil, for garnish

Pour the olive oil in a heavy bottomed stainless steel pot. Add the finely chopped onion and allow it to soften, then add the potatoes and close the lid and simmer, stirring occasionally, until they are partially mashed. Add a little hot water if the mixture is too dry. Add the finely sliced mushrooms and finish cooking for about 20 minutes, remove from heat and let cool slightly. Then combine the remaining ingredients, stirring with a spoon to make the mixture homogeneous. Pour the mixture into circular single-dose aluminum moulds, sprayed with the oil and bake in a water bath for about 25 to 30 minutes at 350°F until they have taken firmed up and lightly browned. While the flans are baking, pour the milk and cream in a steel saucepan, then add the combine ricotta and Parmesan and warm up on a low heat. Use an immersion mixer to create a smooth sauce, and add half of the finely grated truffle and a pinch of salt. Keep warm until ready to serve. Remove the flans from the oven and while still hot, place them individually on a warmed dish, cover completely with the sauce and serve very hot, garnished with the remaining fresh truffles, thinly sliced, and olive oil.

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Montefalco, Bevagna & The Arnaldo Caprai Winery

May 22, 2016, 11:36 pm

≫ Next: Orvieto: Festa Palombella & Trattoria del Moro Aronne

≪ Previous: Spello: The Medieval Hill Town of Hispellum

Umbria is scattered with picturesque hilltop villages, and Montefalco is one of the prettiest. The name of this cobbled hill town which means 'Falcon's Mount', celebrates its position high above the Spoleto valley, although according to legend it's actually named after the falcons of Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II. In 1249 he was all set to destroy the old town of Cocccorone on this site when his falcons landed here and decided to rename it Montefalco. Known also as 'la ringhiera d'Umbria' - the balcony of Umbria - for its high vantage point over the valley that runs from Perugia to Spoleto, Montefalco began its life as an important Roman settlement on the Via Flaminia. This tiny hill town, enclosed by 14th-century walls, is the birthplace of eight Italian saints, including St Chiara di Montefalco. Surrounded by renowned vineyards, this is also the land of the famous red Sagrantino di Montefalco. Vine cultivation in the Montefalco area dates back to pre-Roman times and remains one its main agricultural treasures.

Though small-scale cultivation of Montefalco's indigenous grape dates back to 1549 (monks used it to create a sweet sacramental wine), the grape all but disappeared in later centuries and was nearly extinct by the 1960s. Only in the late 1970s was Sagrantino revived by a handful of winemakers who learned to tame the grape’s aggressive tannins. Wine producers such as Arnaldo Caprai, Scacciadiavoli, Perticaia, Colpetrone, Le Cimate, and Tenuta Bellafonte are now exporting their dark and dense wine around the globe. Sagrantino, with its powerful footing and a fruity bouquet is perfect for pairing with rustic and hearty fare such as prime cuts of steak, game meat, and aromatic cheeses-based dishes. There’s also now an official wine trail, the “Strada del Sagrantino,” marked by purple signs that guide tourists from one winery to the next, that allow everyone to explore their favourite wines, one taste at a time.

14th-century Porta Sant'Agostino of the 'centro storico' of Montefalco

Vi Cavour is the main street through Montefalco

Piazza del Commune, the main square of Motefalco

The Chiesa di San'Agostino was built in 1279

The quiet interior features some glorious frescoes

The Madonna and Child from the 14th-century

The frescoes are still quite colourful despite their age

Madonna and Child with Two Saints from the 14th-century

Bevagna's Porto Foligno is part of the of the town's Medieval walls

Tribute to Garibaldi above the entry gate

A more artistic vantage point of the crest

Bevagna's Piazza Filippo Silvestri with 19th-century fountain in front of the Chiesa di San Silvestro

The barrel-vaulted interior of San Silvestro

12th-century Chiesa San Michele Arcangelo

The beautiful carved entry doors to Chiesa San Michele Arcangelo

An Italian pigeon grooming above the doors to the chiesa maintaining her 'bella figrura'

A lovely carved sign hangs outside the 12th-century parish church

14th-century interior of the chiesa

My favourite Italian wine producer in Umbria is Arnaldo Caprai, which led the way to reviving Montefalco's indigenous Sagrantino grape variety. The family operation began in 1971 when textiles entrepreneur Arnaldo bought the Val di Maggio estate in Montefalco. His lifelong dream was to produce a wine of his own and discover the potential of the local varieties, in particular Sagrantino. In 1988 his son Marco started managing the winery and with his passion and determination gave the necessary impetus to the production of top quality wines. The Arnaldo Caprai winery is now the acknowledged leader in the production of top quality Sagrantino di Montefalco, a wine produced exclusively from Sagrantino, a native grape variety that has been growing in the region of Montefalco for more than four hundred years. Thanks to a commitment to ongoing research and long term experimentation, the Arnaldo-Caprai winery now produces top quality wines that show unique character and depth. Needless to say, after enjoying a special wine tour of the estate, we came home to Casa Boronia with a case of wine to enjoy over dinner during our stay in Umbria.

The entry gates of Arnaldo Caprai Winery outside Montefalco

The lush vines of Arnaldo Caprai

Marco Caprai

After a tour of the vines, our guide led us through to the stainless steel vat room in which the red wine is fermented

The wine is then transferred and aged in French oak barriques

Aged for at least 30 months, the wines are then bottled in their state-of-the-art bottling machine

The wines are finally labelled, boxed and ready for sale around the world

After the behind-the-scenes tour, our guide welcomed us into the wine tasting room to sample some of Arnaldo Caprai's fine wines

Grecante is Arnaldo Caprai's lovely white wine made with Grechetto grapes

Montefalco Rosso, my favourite Arnaldo Caprai red wine at 12 euros a bottle!

The Collepiano a modern and refined interpretation of a traditional wine once made by monks

Aged for 22 months, the Collepiano is polished and spicy with velvety tannins;

we left the vineyard with a half a case of each wine

www.arnaldocaprai.it

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Orvieto: Festa Palombella & Trattoria del Moro Aronne

May 24, 2016, 12:04 am

≫ Next: Panicale: Perugino, Rafaello & Ristorante Lillo Tatani

≪ Previous: Montefalco, Bevagna & The Arnaldo Caprai Winery

Famous for its colourful ceramics and gleaming cathedral, Orvieto is one of Umbria's grandest hill towns, sitting majestically high above the valley floor perched on a plateau of tufa rock with the outline of its world famous Duomo visible for miles around. Arriving on Whitsunday for the Festa della Palombella, a traditional festival that takes place on Pentecost Day in Orvieto once a year, we were in the main piazza outside the Duomo to witness the festivities. During the celebration, the beautiful Piazza del Duomo hosts hundreds of people to celebrate the Catholic feast with Bishop Benedetto Tuzia, the Bishop of Orvieto-Todi overseeing the auspicious event which was introduced in the 15th century by the Monaldeschi family. The Holy Spirit, represented by a dove, flies in a special carrier from Via Maitani to the Duomo. A Gothic tabernacle depicting the Cenacle is erected on the Cathedral steps days before the event. At midday fireworks burst from the Empyrean, while a white dove, representing The Holy Spirit, descends towards the tabernacle along a wire in a small plastic carrier to the tabernacle, where it is removed and presented by the Bishop Tuzia from the balcony of the Opera del Duomo di Orvieto. Auspices for the year are drawn according to the way the ceremony proceeds, which judging from the great cheers and applause, bodes very well. Following the event, we wend our way to Trattoria del Moro Aronne, one of Orvieto's more esteemed restaurants for a leisurely Sunday lunch.

Enormous crowds gather for Festa della Palombella, a traditional festival that takes place on Pentecost Day in Orvieto once a year

The dove is released from it's wire perch by a helmut wearing workman and monk

The Holy Spirit, represented as a dove and encased in a plastic cylinder, is presented to the crowds as witnessed by Bishop Benedetto Tuzia

Trattoria del Moro Aronne

The sign outside the trattoria

The menu and charming interior of Trattoria del Moro Aronne

2010 Castello di Montegiove, a lovely local Umbrian red wine

A glass of the delicious Elicious red wine

Affetatti Misti Locale

Polpette di Melanzane

Filetto di Maiale alle prugne

Tagliata al rogo

Pistachio Gelato with whipped cream and chocolate sauce

Pannacotta with wild berry coulis

A hot steaming macchiato to finish the meal

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Panicale: Perugino, Rafaello & Ristorante Lillo Tatani

May 24, 2016, 11:37 pm

≫ Next: Arezzo: Piero della Francesca & Lancia D'Oro

≪ Previous: Orvieto: Festa Palombella & Trattoria del Moro Aronne

One of the most beautiful towns in Italy, Panicale has been crowned 'I Borghi piu belli d'Italia', a selection of small villages throughout Italy that are considered to be the most beautiful. While Panicale has probably been inhabited since Etruscan times, it was a medieval castle built on the peak of the hill that formed the village we see today. One of the Italy's famous painters, Pietro Vannuci, known as Il Perugino, was born in Panicale and the local Church of San Sebastiano is home to one of his celebrated frescoes — The Martyrdom of Saint Sebastian. Chiesa di San Sebastiano was built between the 14th and 15th-centuries, and later remodelled in 1623. The Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, a fresco painted by Perugino in 1505, is considered to be one of the artist's most important works in Umbria. Designed to decorate the back wall of the Oratory of San Sebastiano, the martyrdom was conceived as an abstract composition of geometrical figures. The central pyramid depicts four archers that seem to dance around the saint, who appear calm as he is pierced by the arrows. In the background is a bucolic landscape of gentle rolling hills, which was actually modelled on the view from outside the church looking towards Lago Trasimeno and the Valdichiana valley.

In the same church there is also the breathtaking fresco depicting the 'Madonna in trono con Angeli musicanti', which has only recently been attributed to Raphael. It was taken from the St. Augustine Church in 1884, and is now being preserved in the Church of Saint Sebastian. Painted by students of Perugino, one of the startling revelations has been that four of the figures in the fresco, the Musical Angels, were all painted by Raphael, at age 12. It was an extraordinary experience to be able to get so close to these works of art, in private, and in total quiet. Fortified with the art of Perugino, it was time to fortify our bodies with the special Umbian cuisine of Lillo Tatini, our favourite restaurant in Panicale on Piazza Umberto I. Celebrating a very special birthday with our dear friend Paolo who had just arrived from Rome, it was a wonderful day with good friends, great art and fabulous cuisine.

The ancient porto Perugia into Panicale's Piazza Grande

A lovely ceramic tile map of Panicale is under Porto Perugia

The 'Keymaster' of Panicale unlocking the Church of San Sebastiano

Perugino's exquisite 'Martyrdom of San Sebastiano'

Detail of the fresco showing one of the archers preparing his bow before the onslaught of arrows that would soon be launched at Saint Sebastian

Another archer taking aim at the Sebastian

With just two arrows in his thigh, the fresco is unique in that most depictions of Saint Sebastian he is riddled with arrows, however Perugino shows the scene just before the act takes place

An early Raphael fresco of the Madonna con Bambino, which he painted at age 12,

sits to the left of the Perugino - Raphael studied under Perugino

View from Panicale over the Umbrian countryside to Lago Trasimeno

Our favourite restaurant in Panicale is Lillo Tatini on Piazza Grande

Lillo's charming hand painted sign outside her restaurant

The warm and welcoming interior of Lillo Tatini

The lovely suede wrapped menu

Arriving at the restaurant for the birthday celebration of a dear friend,

Lillo brought us each a glass of Prosecco to honour the day

Warm homemade herb and cheese buns

Lillo's outstanding Anchovy Butter

Affettati of prosciutto stagionato do Norcia, pecorino di Pienza, Pecorino di Fossa served with pumpkin marmalade

Warm and luscious Crostini di Fegato

A enjoyed a bottle of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, the noted wine from the hill town of the same name

Braised Rabbit with Castelluccio Lentils

Beef braised in red wine

Carbonara del Perugino: Ravioli ripini con uovo quaglia saltati in padella con pancetta

di Cinta Sense e ricotta stagionata di Norcia

Semifreddo with chocolate sauce

Fruit Sorbets

My macchiato arrives in a cup with a little lid to keep it hot

Off comes the lid and my macchiato is perfetto!

www.lillotatini.it

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Arezzo: Piero della Francesca & Lancia D'Oro

May 25, 2016, 11:21 pm

≫ Next: Assisi: Basilica di San Francesco & Taverna Consoli

≪ Previous: Panicale: Perugino, Rafaello & Ristorante Lillo Tatani

With its origins dating back to the Paleolithic era, Etruscan Arretium was founded around the 9th-century BC, and quickly became one of the most important cities in Tuscany, playing an important role over the centuries due to its strategic position along the Via Cassia. Arezzo's most powerful period came during the Middle Ages, before the town was taken over by Florence, and even though much of the centre was destroyed during World War II, Arezzo is today a vibrant wealthy city with many exquisite monuments, churches and museums remaining, allowing visitors a unique opportunity to step back into the city's rich and colourful history. The city's greatest artistic treasure however, is Piero della Francesca's fresco cycle The Legend of the True Cross, located in the Basilica of San Francesco. Started in 1452, this early Renaissance masterpiece tells the story of the 'True Cross', considered to be Piero della Francesca’s greatest masterpiece and narrates a medieval story about the cross on which Jesus was crucified. The story tells the legend of the cross used to crucify Christ, from sprig to Tree of Knowledge, to its use a bridge during the reign of Solomon, and ultimately its discovery by Helena, mother of Constantine, the first Christian emperor.

Piero della Fransesca's fresco of the Legend of the True Cross

Closeup of the 'Annunciation'

The Dream of Constantine, one of the earliest nocturnal scenes in Western art

Triptych beside the Legend of the True Cross

A Friar lights candles on the altar in preparation for a special service

After viewing the fresco cycle, the church stopped admitting visitors as a special mass

started to get underway

As the mass started, each member of the clergy stood and began to sing in harmony

Once the service became more intense and the devout began to pray, we left the church quietly and made our across the piazza for lunch

One of the more picturesque places to eat in Arezzo, is under the beautiful sun bathed Loggia designed by Giorgio Vasari. One of the prettier restaurants nestled under the vaulted colonnade is Trattori Lancia D'Oro, which serves traditional Tuscan and Arezzo cuisine with delicious homemade pasta and an admirable wine list of local wines — the ideal spot to enjoy a wonderful lunch, a bottle of wine and wait out the stormy weather out on the piazza.

With a little rain and a wee bit of thunder, we found a lovely outdoor trattoria in the Vasari Loggia

The outdoor loggia of La Lancia D'Oro

The menu features typical Arezzo cuisine

Warm homemade foccacia with roasted tomato and zucchini

An amuse bouche of hot tomato and bread soup

A local Chianti

A glass of lovely red wine to enjoy with our lunch

Rocca di Castagnoli Le Pergoline, a Tuscan white wine

A light crisp white wine, perfect for a sunny and stormy afternoon

Lasagna Verde with béchamel and bolognese sauce

Pici al Ragu di Chinghiale

Macchiato Caldo

www.ristorantelanciadoro.it

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Assisi: Basilica di San Francesco & Taverna Consoli

May 26, 2016, 11:29 pm

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Perched on a cliff along the walls of Assisi, the approach to the Basilica di San Francesco can be overpowering. Assisi is the birthplace of St. Francis, who was born Giovanni Francesco di Bernardone in 1182 and later founded the Franciscan Order and Women’s Order of Santa Clara. Thousands come to worship in Assisi's magnificent churches, and to pray to Francis of Assisi, the patron saint of Italy affectionately called Il Poverello because he lived and preached a life of simplicity and poverty. Famous for its spectacular Basilica di San Francesco, built in the 13th century, Assisi is worth visiting even without the churches, extraordinary frescoes and associations with St Francis. Founded by the Umbrians, Assisi was prominent during the Roman era but achieved its greatest fame and importance during the Middle Ages. The town still retains the architectural flavour of these times, as we enjoyed strolling through its extraordinary squares and streets.

A labyrinth of meandering Medieval walkways wind through Assisi

The Basilica di San Francesco is perhaps the most visited sight in Umbria, housing the saint’s relics and Giotto‘s renowned fresco series of St. Francis’s life

View of the Basilica

Sculpture on the front lawn of the Basilica depicting St Francis as a soldier

before he devoted himself to a life of poverty

The Basilica, which was begun in 1228, is comprised of two churches known as the Upper Church and the Lower Church, with a crypt on the lower level where the remains and relics of St Francis are interred. The Basilica and accompanying friary are a distinctive landmark when approaching the hilltop town of Assisi, one of the most important stops for Christian pilgrims visiting Italy. The Basilica's breathtaking interior and world famous frescoes, painted by the greatest artists of the time including Giotto and Cimabue, portray the life of St Francis as well as scenes from the Old and New Testament. An exquisite church with a fabulous collection of priceless frescoes, it was tragic, when in 1997, massive earthquakes hit Assisi, causing enormous damage to the Basilca and the fragile frescoes located within. Astoundingly, the restoration was done in record time, and the Basilica was reopened just two years later. Today, pilgrims flock to Assisi and the Basilica di San Francesco with the hauntingly beautiful lower church where St. Francis is buried — a simple tomb with a vaulted ceiling, painted dark blue and dotted with stars.

The interior of the Upper Church of St Francis with Giotto's fresco cycle on the life of St Francis

The Stigmata of St. Francis by Giotto, painted 1297-1300

Saint Francis' Sermon to the Birds

Miracle of the Spring

The Basilica of St Francis - The Lower Church

Side Chapel in the Basilica

The Burial Tomb of St Francis of Assisi in the Basilica

The interior Cloisters of the Church

One of the older sites within the ancient town is the former Temple of Minerva, now a Christian church, Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. The entire Roman facade, with its imposing Corinthian columns are from the first century BC. After several centuries of abandonment, 6th century Benedictine monks began to restore the space, but from the 13th to the early 16th century, the temple was even used as a city jail! In 1539, Pope Paul III ordered the inner sanctum to be completely restored. The church nave now is decorated in an extravagant Baroque style, which is unbelievably beautiful, but the contrast to the classical exterior is quite shocking.

The Roman facade of The Temple of Minerva is now a Christian Church with an extravagant Baroque interior

A pigeon waiting outside the temple for an offering perhaps

Temple of Minerva's Baroque apse

The ceiling is wildly ornate in such sharp contrast the stark Roman exterior

View over the Val d'Umbria on our stroll to the Basilica of Santa Chiara

Exterior of the Basilica di Santa Chiara, a 13th-century church that houses the relics of St. Clare,

a follower of Saint Francis of Assisi and founder of the Order of Poor Ladies,

known today as the Order of Saint Clare

The beautifully carved door and architrave

Carving detail of a lamb on the entry to Santa Chiara, the symbol for Christ

The church interior was given a Baroque makeover in 1742-57,

which was sadly destroyed by an Allied bomb in August 1943

Ornate painting of St Francis

In addition to Assisi's religious and cultural highlights, Assisi is also famous for its fine restaurants. Located in one of the most beautiful buildings in the historic centre of Assisi, with glorious views over La Piazza del Comune, is Taverna dei Consoli, which has been in business with three generations of one family since 1936. The menu emphasizes local cuisine using traditional recipes and delicious local produce, such as black truffles from Norcia, porcini mushrooms, wild boar and game plus a selection of regional cheeses. The charming interior has retained much of the original splendour of its Roman and medieval heritage with vaulted ceilings and stone arches, but on a warm summer day the best place to have lunch is on the outdoor terrace overlooking the main square.